My 396 Build Up..

Well to start with I have bought alot of stuff off of Ebay to save some money. And I did- I bought the stroker kit of the ebay seller Dynoflo1. Really bunch of nice guys and they were really helpful and answered all of my questions. I highly recommend them. The kit I bought is the 396 LT1. It has the Srp Forged pistons with for Eagle 3.875 crank and 6.0 H beam rods. I'm having Southern Performance in Southhaven,MS 1-662-393-0728. Just ask for Eric or Travis. Really great guys and have built engine for the engine masters challenge for Dick Miller Racing. Like I say these guys know alot.


If you can get this issue it's really great!

This is the man himself Dick Miller of Dick Miller racing. This is a customers engine  that is going to atlanta. If I remember this is a 460 Olds and it did a final dyno of 525hp and 550trq. Very nice guy and answered every tech question I could possibly think to ask him. A professional in every aspect.

First the Basics...

Well let's start from the beginning of this engine build-The block is from a 94 corvette. The corvette blocks are all 4 bolt main. The Trans Am and Camaro have 2 bolt main blocks. Now I have heard of some F-body blocks being 4 bolt but I have never seen it myself. Why a 4 bolt and not a splayed 2 bolt? Well to start with is cost. I wanted to save the money for other things. So I figured a std bore vette block is a good place to start. I have also done block filler for the bottom half of my block. This is a trick the Southern Performance taught me. I can still run the engine on the street because all of the heat is up top so it will still cooled . I used brass freeze plugs after they cleaned and prepped the block. The block had to be clearanced for the huge stroke. I'm going to have the whole block painted with glyptal. That's a special paint used by electric motor builders to seal  them. Well when you use them on the inside of your block like the lifter valley and other area not machined, it acts as a sealer. Because when the block is exposed to heat and stress the block actually has sand casting that comes out of the block. Interesting stuff you learn hanging out at the machine shops huh? Of course I'm running head studs and main studs with cometic gaskets.

Before all of the boring stuff begins. Block will be painted after all machine work.
Srp 396 piston. Pretty huh?

Showing the backside of this piston. Lots of beef there....

Talk About Heads...                                      

At first I had some LT4 cylinder heads that I got at an auction off of ebay for about $600. As I was going to start building them up I came across another set of heads that were coated and ported from Airborne coatings. Traded +$500 for them. Well I got ready to get those heads going until I found a set of LT4 AFR heads. Ported with 2.08 1.6 valves. Well I had to have them and I got them for $1300. So I sold my other LT4 heads to offset the cost. These heads are ready to go so I don't have to worry about them. Maybe new valve seals at the most.

 

Cam and Timing Chain...

Now this is interesting to say the least. To start with I have a 94 camaro which if you know anything about the engine, it's a non vented opti spark. That sucks butt. So what I have done is I have converted mine to a 95 model setup which is vented. What you need for that conversion is the timing chain cover and the vented opti spark of course. Another interesting fact is the harness. The harness from a non vented opti WILL NOT FIT a vented opti. BUT you can change it out without changing the harness. The opti harness can be un plugged and the vented harness plugs right in. You can't miss the difference- the non vented opti has a short plug connector and the vented has a long nose. The timing chain on the LT1 is a single row timing chain. Well the reason is because the big gear also turns the water pump gears for the water pump. Well if you run an electric Meziere pump like I am you can eliminate the waterpump gear set and put a double roller timing chain on there. You have to clearance the timing chain cover a little but I'm not too sure how much. The timing chain is a Cloyes and when I do know about how much to clear I'll post it here. The cam I'm running is a comp cams XFI Cam. It one of their newer line of cams they have come out with for the LT1. The cam # is 07-468-8. It's a little wild but I'm also going to be running a little N2O so this is pretty good for N/A and nitrous.

I am also running comp cams "R" roller lifters. The R stands for better inserts or something like that to make them tougher for high performance applications. As long as they hold up though I'll be happy.

Oil Pan and Valve Covers...

The valve covers I'm using are the Canton valve covers that are custom made-part #65-206. I think they're awesome to say the least. I needed something to clear the 1.6 comp cams roller rockers with the poly locks. These covers do the trick and look nice to boot. The oil pan I'm going to be using is also a Canton. If you can get one do it. I got the matching oil pump and strainer just to make it all easy. 15-242t is the part # for the oil pan. The pickup tube is part # 20-023. And the high volume oil pump is part# 20-020. Also running some hardened push rods just to make sure nothing gets bent.

 
This is a good close up of the pan windage and scraper setup. If you look down into the pan you can see the spring loaded baffles for sudden stop or road racing. Very well designed pan and I would highly recommend it. IMHO I feel it's the best pan for an LT1 engine.
 

Balancer and Flywheel...

The balancer I'm using is an ATI aluminum balancer. The flywheel is from TCI that I got from summit. This whole assembly is internally balanced. Of course every bolt is ARP everything with loctite so I will worry a little less about things breaking. Of course nothing man made is perfect-especially in racing engines.

TCI flexplate SFI approved.

Exhaust...

The exhaust I'm going to use is the Hooker Headers full length 1 3/4 headers coated. I'm not too sure about what I'm going to use for mufflers yet. I don't know weather to use bullets and dump in front of the rear end or run full length and use an electronic cutout. Decisions...decisions.....

Intake and Throttle Body...

I have the LT4 intake which I don't know if I'm going to keep it red. I might just clean it off just to fool people. Of course it'll be hard with the cam I'll be running.....The throttle body is a Holly 58mm. Nothing special about that I guess. I thought about the 1300 cfm monoblade but I don't know if it'll make that much of difference. The fuel injectors are ford #36lb injectors I'm having flow balanced as I'm typing this. This should make for an interesting hp estimate. Hoping for 550 but we'll see what it comes out to in the end.

I have the LT4 intake which I don't know if I'm going to keep it red. I might just clean it off just to fool people. Of course it'll be hard with the cam I'll be running.....The throttle body is a Holly 58mm. Nothing special about that I guess. I thought about the 1300 cfm monoblade but I don't know if it'll make that much of difference. The fuel injectors are ford #36lb injectors I'm having flow balanced as I'm typing this. This should make for an interesting hp estimate. Hoping for 550 but we'll see what it comes out to in the end.

Meziere pump,intake and oil pump and pickup.

Other Interesting Stuff...

I mentioned running a nitrous kit- well the kit I'll be running is a wet Zex kit. The most I'll be running is a 200hp shot. That should be enough for the street I would think. Don't you?